Sashco Log Builders F&Q’s
The following FAQ’s relate to Log Builder
- Can I use Log Builder or Conceal around gutters?
Answer: In general, no. Water-based products should not be used in areas that may experience large volumes of water. For this application, Sashco’s Lexel or Through the Roof are excellent choices and are available at Ace Hardware, True Value Hardware and Do-It-Best Centers nationwide.
- Can I use Log Builder or Conceal on a joint over 2 inches?
Answer: In general, no. Log Jam or Chinker’s Edge would be better choices for gaps this wide. Log Builder and Conceal both work well on joints that range from 1/4″ to 2″ wide.
- Can you stain over Log Jam/ Log Builder?
Answer:Yes. Most stains can be successfully applied over Log Jam and Log Builder. However, the appearance of stain applied over chinking or caulking will almost always be different than the appearance of the same stain applied over wood. This is because of the differences in color and surface texture between such sealants and wood. So, before applying a stain to a large area where the stain is being applied to both sealants and wood, be sure you test a small area to confirm whether or not the appearance will be acceptable.
Also, it is important to make note that many (but not all) stains are based on resins or polymers that, when dry, are quite rigid and hard – far harder and far more rigid than either Log Jam Chinking or Log Builder sealant. This can lead to problems later as the chinking or caulking tries stretch to accommodate the inevitable movement that continually occurs between logs due to changes in temperature and moisture. Because the rigid coating cannot move nearly as easily as the sealant, it builds up localized areas of stress and can cause the surface of the sealant to develop shallow surface cracks, which, while not normally affecting the overall sealant performance, can lead to an unappealing appearance.
- Do I need to chink or caulk my “chinkless” style log home?
Answer: The short answer is you probably will – if not now, then later.
Here’s why. Often log home manufacturer design their homes to fit tightly together – no chink line is required. This is a look that appeals to many customers. Generally, when the logs are stacked, an “internal” seal is installed (either a bead of caulking between the logs, a butyl tape, or something similar to insure a water – and air – tight home.) to insure a water tight home.
Two things happen over the next few years. First, as the logs dry out to their final moisture level, they move. this movement sometimes breaks the initial internal seals between the logs allowing cold air, bugs, and water to come into the home. It is difficult to tell exactly where the seal; is broken, so spot repairs are sometimes not effective. At this point, some homeowners choose to caulk the home between log courses to fully seal it up. Conceal is an ideal product for caulking these joints because it is textured and matched to the popular stain colors out there. So the Conceal caulking is truly “concealed” to insure the desired “chinkless” look.
Second, as the logs dry out checks will appear and get bigger. These checks (on the home’s exterior) will need to be treated with Penetreat to prevent rot, stained to prime the inside surface, and then caulked with backer rod and either Log Builder or Conceal. Caulking these checks is essential to preventing rot, prolonging the life of stain, and keeping water out of the home.
- How should I tool Log Builder and Conceal?
Answer:The best way for many people is with a damp foam-wedge brush. Others prefer shaped metal trowels or any curved tool to push the caulking into the joint. You do need to tool the bead, even if you’ve laid it down very neatly. Tooling pushes the bead of caulking into contact with the wood, insuring great adhesion!
- What can I use to clean up if I get messy with the Log Builder?
Answer: While still wet, the Log Builder cleans up easily with water (either on hands, tools or wall surfaces). Once it completely dries it us much harder to remove, and often needs to be cut or scraped off. If it dries on your hands, you can usually remove it by just rubbing your hands together, and it will roll up and off your skin.
- What do I do if the Log Jam/ Log Builder is blistering?
Answer: Review the technical bulletin entitled, “Preventing Blisters in Chinking Material”, for a complete treatment of this subject.
- What do you use to tool Log Jam/ Log Builder?
Answer:
A variety of tools and techniques can be used – whatever works best for you. Many Log Jam applicators use foam brushes (kept wet from pails of water) and steel or plastic trowels (of various widths). In both cases, it helps to lightly spray water (or a water/alcohol mix) on the surface of the chinking immediately before brushing or troweling. Similar tools and techniques can also be used with Log Builder, but frequently, for small joints, a wetted finger will also work well.
- What is Log Builder made of?
Answer: Log Builder is a water-based acrylic latex sealant.
- What is the difference between Log Builder and Conceal?
Answer: Conceal is lightly textured and diffuses light, so the caulk “disappears”. Log Builder has no texture and gives a more shiny finish when dry.
- What is the difference between Log Jam and Log Builder?
Answer: Log Jam Chinking and Log Builder Caulk are very similar in their chemical composition. The primary difference between them is that Log Jam is textured to simulate the appearance of traditional mortar.
- What should I use to fill checks/ cracks?
Answer: First, it is important to realize that the most worrisome checks are those on the upper curvature of the logs – making them the most prone to collecting moisture, fungi spores, dirt and other contamination. Larger checks on the lower curvature – while not prone to collecting moisture – can still lead to air infiltration into the house and provide entry access to flies and other insects. It is also important to realize that for approximately the first 1-2 years – especially if the logs are relatively green to begin with - that the initial checks will continue to open up as the logs dry out. If this continual “opening up” is likely to be severe – which could cause any caulk or chinking to fail – then it should be understood that some sealant repair may be needed after the logs have come into moisture equilibrium with the climate of the building site.
For checks that are about 1/4″ and larger in width (which are large enough to accept round backer rod), they can be effectively sealed with such products as Log Builder caulking, or, for a more textured appearance, Log Jam Chinking. It is always best to perform the following steps when sealing checks with caulking or chinking (starting, of course, with appropriate weather!):
1) Make sure there is no standing water in the checks to begin with (otherwise, there is a great risk of rot and premature sealant failure. Either remove the standing water or let it evaporate away.
2) As part of the overall application of a wood preservative, like PeneTreat, to the surface of the logs, extra wood preservative should be applied into the checks that are to be sealed with caulk or chinking – then allowed to dry.
3) It is usually best to apply the stain that will be used over the general surface of the house to the inner lips of the checks to be caulked or chinked – if the stain is compatible with the caulk and chinking to be used. Such a stain can act as a primer for the caulk or chinking and can greatly improve adhesion, especially when the walls are subjected to very wet weather. [Note: If the inner "lips" of the checks are dirty or significantly weathered, then these "lips" (i.e., the surfaces of the check which will be in contact with the caulk or chinking) need to be cleaned, down to bare, "sound" wood - in order to insure good adhesion of the stain and/or the caulk or chinking. Such cleaning can be accomplished several ways (including power washing and hand-sanding), but cob-blasting with a Sashco Kernel is the fastest, easiest and surest way to do the cleaning.]
4) Install the appropriate round backer rod, to the proper depth. [Note: The depth of the sealant bead should be approximately 1/2 of the joint width. This guideline will dictate how deep to press the backer rod into the check.]
5) Apply the caulk or chinking into the check with good pressure, forcing the sealant into intimate contact with the inner lips of the check. Do not just passively lay the sealant into the check recesses, which will have a tendency to not let the caulk or chinking properly “wet out” the surface – leading to poor adhesion.
6) Then, using a putty knife, shaped piece of wood, or a finger, “tool” the bead to further force the sealant into intimate log contact. While tooling, scrape the excess sealant from the sharp edges of the check and remove any material that may have smeared over the surfaces of the adjoining logs with a wet rag or sponge. Note: Sashco is working on more improved ways of dealing with checks and cracks, and when available, these new methods will be described in full.
- Why can’t I use Big Stretch instead of Log Builder?
Answer: The biggest difference between Big Stretch and Log Builder is that Log Builder is guaranteed for use on log homes where as Big Stretch is not. Log Builder also has a few advantages for use over Big Stretch when used on log homes. Log structures are generally stained instead of painted (like a conventional structure) and Log Builder has better adhesion to a large variety of stains than Big Stretch does. Log Builder also has an increased elasticity rate in order to withstand the rigors of log movement.
- Why do I have to fill the cracks? Why can’t I leave it natural?
Answer: Checks that develop in logs should be caulked if they are on the upper curvature of the logs and are wide enough to accept backer rod. These type of checks can be reservoirs for water. Also, spiral checks that lead into the home should be caulked. These spiral checks can collect water and direct it right into your home. Refer to our Log Builder Data: Tec sheet for excellent instructions on how to caulk checks.
- Will Log Builder or Conceal stick to stone and masonry where my fireplace attaches to my logs? Will it work where my aluminum flashing meets logs or metal roof meets logs?
Answer: Yes, both will adhere very well to such stone and masonry. Your main concern should be that if the stone or masonry is made hot by the fireplace, then the sealant will likely not survive such high temperatures. Be sure to read the Data Tech for specific temperature ranges to ensure the product will work for you.
Both products will generally adhere well to clean aluminum. Water based products should not be used in areas that may experience large volumes of water such as roofs, gutters, or flashings. For this application, Sashco’s Lexel or Through the Roof are excellent choices and are available at Ace Hardware, True Value Hardware and Do-It-Best Centers nationwide.
