PeneTreat FAQ’s

PeneTreat Frequently Asked Questions

Can I apply Penetreat over my dried out logs?
Answer:

Penetreat can be applied to log surfaces, whether green or dry, that are bare. As with any substrate application, the surface must be clean. Penetreat will form a protective “shell” on the outer layer of the logs to a depth of about ½”. Keep in mind that, in order for Penetreat to maintain its potency, it must be covered with a good quality stain.

Can I mix PeneTreat in with my stain?
Answer:

No. PeneTreat is designed to be used only underneath a quality coating of some kind.

Can I stain over Penetreat?
Answer:

Yes. In fact, Penetreat has to be covered with stain in order to maintain its potency. Virtually all stains work well when applied over Penetreat.

Do I need to chink or caulk my “chinkless” style log home?
Answer:

The short answer is you probably will – if not now, then later.
Here’s why. Often log home builders and manufacturers design their homes to fit tightly together – no chink line is required. This is a look that appeals to many customers. Generally, when the logs are stacked, an “internal” seal is installed (either a bead of caulking between the logs, a butyl tape, or something similar to insure a water – and air – tight home.) to insure a water tight home.

Two things happen over the next few years. First, as the logs dry out to their final moisture level, they move. This movement sometimes breaks the initial internal seals between the logs allowing cold air, bugs, and water to come into the home. It is difficult to tell exactly where the seal is broken, so spot repairs are sometimes not effective. At this point, some homeowners choose to caulk the home between log courses to fully seal it up. Conceal is an ideal product for caulking these joints because it is textured and matched to the popular stain colors out there. So the Conceal caulking is truly “concealed” to insure the desired “chinkless” look.

Second, as the logs dry out checks will appear and get bigger. These checks (on the home’s exterior) will need to be treated with Penetreat to prevent rot, stained to prime the inside surface, and then caulked with backer rod and either Log Builder or Conceal. Caulking these checks is essential to preventing rot, prolonging the life of the stain, and keeping water out of the home.

Does Penetreat kill mildew?
Answer:

No. Mildew is a type of fungi that exists on the surface of wood and does not actually attack or eat wood (although it can cause some discoloration of the wood surface). Penetreat’s great strength is its ability to control wood-destroying fungi that actually cause rot. Of course, Penetreat also helps to control many insects, which are killed when they ingest the treated wood. If you want to control mildew, you should use an additional mildewcide in your stain and clear coat. Sashco recommends Stay Clean I/E by Walla Walla Environmental, available through Sashco distributors.

How long do I wait after applying PeneTreat before I stain?
Answer:

The wood must be dry – below 20% moisture level. The only way to verify this is with a moisture meter! We highly recommend that our customers rent or buy a moisture meter to be sure that the wood really is dry before staining. Many times when a stain fails, we find out that it was applied to wet wood that was seemingly “dry enough”.
In a warm and dry climate when there has been no rain, generally 2 days is enough time for the Penetreat to dry before applying stain. However, it is important to note that any liquid that gets on the logs (including mixed Penetreat) can sit in a check or crack in the upper curvature of a log for several days before completely evaporating. While it sits in the check, the water soaks into the surrounding wood and creates localized areas of high moisture content, which can lead to localized areas of failed stain. Therefore, it is best to remove standing water or Penetreat from such areas with a shop-vac, dry rag or compressed air by at least the next day so the adjacent wood can dry out like the rest of the logs in a reasonable amount of time.

How often do I have to use Penetreat?
Answer:

Generally, just once – before the first stain is applied to the wood. However, if that stain is not kept in good condition over the years, then exposed wood can permit some of the Penetreat to leach out when exposed to moisture. In this case, reapplication of Penetreat to bare wood may be required. Penetreat will not penetrate through any coatings, so it must never be applied to stained wood – only bare wood.

PeneTreat is a strong wood preservative. Does this mean it is very toxic?
Answer:

Not when compared to the toxicity of most other wood preservatives historically used. Penetreat is disodium octaborate tetrahydrate. This chemical is very effective at stopping the fungus that causes rot. Also, Penetreat kills most wood boring insects. However, the product is fairly benign to humans and pets (compared to most other fungicides / insecticides). Some skin irritation or eye irritation can occur upon contact – be sure to wash with plenty of water. Also, do not spill a large amount of the solution onto your yard – plants may die if a significant amount is applied to them. Like any product or chemical you use on your log home, use care and common sense when handling. As always, Sashco is happy to supply you with a Material Safety Data sheet for Penetreat, or any of our products, at any time.

Should I buy a ‘treated home’?
Answer:

It all depends on what is meant by “treated home.” Often this term refers to logs that have been treated many years ago with fungicides/insecticides that are now largely banned from the market because of their significant toxicity. Logs treated with such chemicals as pentachlorophenol, creosote, arsenic, chromium and certain copper compounds (and other materials) could very well be a cause of concern since the inside surfaces of those logs (if the logs were treated throughout) could lead people to being exposed to those chemicals in confined interior spaces. If only the exterior surfaces of the logs were treated with such chemicals, then the risk would be far less – but it might still be of some concern.If the treatment used on the home were, say, a borate type of fungicide/insecticide (like Sashco’s PeneTreat or TimBor), then there should be virtually no concern about buying such a “treated home”. However, because human beings have such a wide array of responses to chemicals, even for the most generally benign wood preservatives, like borates, if there is any concern at all, make sure you do some investigating to make certain no one in your family has a negative predisposition to borates (or any chemical that you can determine was used on the house).

What are the little white, sparkly crystals on my logs after I applied PeneTreat? How do I get rid of them?
Answer:

These crystals sometimes appear after the application of Penetreat, especially on newly constructed denser species of wood that don’t allow as much penetration of the Penetreat. There is nothing to worry about – the whitish micro-flakes are just the crystallized Penetreat material. You will simply need to brush them off with a stiff brush or broom before you apply stain. Be sure to wear eye and respiratory protection when brushing the crystals from the wood.

What is the best way to treat the log ends?
Answer:

The cut ends of logs provide a major entry point of moisture into the interior of the logs – due to the extreme tendency of water to wick several inches up the log in the direction of the grain. The first line of defense with such cut ends is to heavily treat them with PeneTreat and then soak them with stain – several coats of stain – to block the open wood cells and prevent them from acting like “straws” for water. In areas of high moisture exposure, Impel Rods can also be used within 6 to 8 inches from such log ends to provide a fungicide in the heart of the log in case the cut ends do wind up taking on significant moisture.

What is the difference between Tim-bor and Penetreat?
Answer:

Chemically, there is no difference. Both products are disodium octaborate tetrahydrate. Each product is EPA registered for different applications: Timbor for dip, spray, and pressure treating in a manufacturing facility, and PeneTreat for remedial applications (spray application to existing structures.)

What should I use to fill checks / cracks?
Answer:

First, it is important to realize that the most worrisome checks are those on the upper curvature of the logs – making them the most prone to collecting moisture, fungi spores, dirt and other contamination. Larger checks on the lower curvature – while not prone to collecting moisture – can still lead to air infiltration into the house and provide entry access to flies and other insects. It is also important to realize that for approximately the first 1-2 years – especially if the logs are relatively green to begin with – that the initial checks will continue to open up as the logs dry out. If this continual “opening up” is likely to be severe – which could cause any caulk or chinking to fail – then it should be understood that some sealant repair may be needed after the logs have come into moisture equilibrium with the climate of the building site.For checks that are about 1/4” and larger in width (which are large enough to accept round backer rod), they can be effectively sealed with such products as Log Builder caulking, or, for a more textured appearance, Log Jam Chinking. It is always best to perform the following steps when sealing checks with caulking or chinking (starting, of course, with appropriate weather!):
1) Make sure there is no standing water in the checks to begin with (otherwise, there is a great risk of rot and premature sealant failure. Either remove the standing water or let it evaporate away.
2) As part of the overall application of a wood preservative, like PeneTreat, to the surface of the logs, extra wood preservative should be applied into the checks that are to be sealed with caulk or chinking – then allowed to dry.
3) It is usually best to apply the stain that will be used over the general surface of the house to the inner lips of the checks to be caulked or chinked – if the stain is compatible with the caulk and chinking to be used. Such a stain can act as a primer for the caulk or chinking and can greatly improve adhesion, especially when the walls are subjected to very wet weather. [Note: If the inner “lips” of the checks are dirty or significantly weathered, then these “lips” (i.e., the surfaces of the check which will be in contact with the caulk or chinking) need to be cleaned, down to bare, “sound” wood – in order to insure good adhesion of the stain and/or the caulk or chinking. Such cleaning can be accomplished several ways (including power washing and hand-sanding), but cob-blasting with a Sashco Kernel is the fastest, easiest and surest way to do the cleaning.] 4) Install the appropriate round backer rod, to the proper depth. [Note: The depth of the sealant bead should be approximately 1/2 of the joint width. This guideline will dictate how deep to press the backer rod into the check.]
5) Apply the caulk or chinking into the check with good pressure, forcing the sealant into intimate contact with the inner lips of the check. Do not just passively lay the sealant into the check recesses, which will have a tendency to not let the caulk or chinking properly “wet out” the surface – leading to poor adhesion.
6) Then, using a putty knife, shaped piece of wood, or a finger, “tool” the bead to further force the sealant into intimate log contact. While tooling, scrape the excess sealant from the sharp edges of the check and remove any material that may have smeared over the surfaces of the adjoining logs with a wet rag or sponge. Note: Sashco is working on more improved ways of dealing with checks and cracks, and when available, these new methods will be described in full.

Which preservative is best for me?
Answer:

There is no perfect answer to this question. There are many wood preservatives on the market that are known to perform well. But, it is true that the sodium borate wood preservatives (like Sashco’s Penetreat) offer excellent insecticidal and fungicidal performance. They are water-based and have very low toxicity levels. (The toxicity of Penetreat is much the same as table salt.) They do not discolor the wood in any way, and they have virtually no odor. When protected with a good exterior stain, they can remain in the wood for an indefinite length of time, and they never evaporate. So, for these and other reasons, borate wood preservatives are an excellent choice.
NOTE: Borate-based preservatives are NOT effective against Carpenter Bees or any other kind of insect that does not actually eat the wood. Carpenter Bees only chew up the wood and then spit it back out, which means the Borate never makes it in to their digestive system.

Why do I need to PeneTreat in this dry climate?
Answer:

Even in dry climates fungi and insects can attack wood. Roof runoff and ground splash-back can frequently deliver large volumes of water to isolated regions of logs that, without a fungicide in the wood, can succumb to rot. And, of course, wood-boring insects are in all climates, and a defense against them is highly important.

Will Penetreat work if there is already stain on the logs?
Answer:

As with all borate products, the answer is no. In order for PeneTreat to perform its intended function, it has to penetrate into bare, clean wood. If a coating exists on the wood surface, it acts as a barrier to the PeneTreat/water solution, prohibiting penetration and retention.

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